MAHARASHTRIAN NAUVARI 

MAHARASHTRIAN NAUVARI 

Maharashtrian Nauvari Saree is a traditional and iconic style of saree worn by women in the state of Maharashtra. The word “Nauvari” literally means “nine yards,” referring to the length of the saree, which is longer than the standard six-yard saree. This unique draping style is a significant part of Maharashtrian culture and is often associated with the grace, strength, and traditional values of Maharashtrian women.

महाराष्ट्रीयन नऊवारी साडी ही महाराष्ट्र राज्यातील महिलांनी परिधान केलेली साडीची एक पारंपारिक आणि प्रतिष्ठित शैली आहे. “नौवरी” या शब्दाचा शाब्दिक अर्थ “नऊ यार्ड” असा होतो, साडीची लांबी, जी मानक सहा-यार्ड साडीपेक्षा जास्त असते. ही अनोखी ड्रेपिंग शैली महाराष्ट्रीयन संस्कृतीचा एक महत्त्वाचा भाग आहे आणि बहुतेक वेळा महाराष्ट्रीयन महिलांच्या कृपेशी, शक्तीशी आणि पारंपारिक मूल्यांशी संबंधित असते.

Drapes of India: The Historic Nauvari Saree

Maharashtrian Nauvari The history and origin of the saree are shrouded in mystery, but archaeological evidence and sculptural references from earlier civilizations depict the saree being draped in a style known as ‘kacham’ or dhoti, worn by both men and women.

Maharashtrian Nauvari The distinctive Maratha woman’s apparel, known as the Nauvari saree, measures nine yards in length. The term “Nauvari” translates to “nine yards,” emphasizing its unique length compared to the more common six-yard saree. This garment is also referred to as the Kaashtha sari or Lugade. The name “Kaashtha” is derived from the style of draping the saree, which closely resembles the traditional Maharashtrian dhoti.

ड्रेप्स ऑफ इंडिया: द हिस्टोरिक नऊवारी साडी

साडीचा इतिहास आणि उत्पत्ती गूढतेने झाकलेली आहे, परंतु पुरातत्वीय पुरावे आणि पूर्वीच्या सभ्यतेतील शिल्पकलेचे संदर्भ साडीला ‘कचम’ किंवा धोती म्हणून ओळखल्या जाणाऱ्या शैलीत रेखांकित करतात, जी स्त्री आणि पुरुष दोघेही परिधान करतात.

नऊवारी साडी या नावाने ओळखल्या जाणाऱ्या मराठा स्त्रीच्या पोशाखाची लांबी नऊ यार्ड आहे. “नौवरी” या शब्दाचे भाषांतर “नऊ यार्ड” असे केले जाते, जे अधिक सामान्य सहा-यार्ड साडीच्या तुलनेत त्याच्या अद्वितीय लांबीवर जोर देते. या वस्त्राला काष्ठ साडी किंवा लुगडे असेही संबोधले जाते. पारंपारिक महाराष्ट्रीयन धोतीशी साधर्म्य साधणाऱ्या साडीला ओढण्याच्या शैलीवरून “काष्ठ” हे नाव पडले आहे.

A Garment of Tradition and Ceremony

Maharashtrian Nauvari In contemporary times, the nine-yard saree is primarily worn by women on ceremonial occasions. The draping style of this saree varies across the Deccan region, influenced by caste and community traditions. For instance, Brahmin women typically drape the saree with the hind pleats tucked into the waist at the back center, and the pallu elegantly thrown over the left shoulder. In contrast, tribal women wear the saree high up to their knees, while coastal fisherwomen drape it like a “kacham,” allowing for ease of movement in their daily activities.

परंपरा आणि समारंभ एक वस्त्र

समकालीन काळात, नऊ गजांची साडी प्रामुख्याने स्त्रिया समारंभात परिधान करतात. या साडीची ड्रेपिंग शैली संपूर्ण दख्खन प्रदेशात भिन्न आहे, ज्याचा प्रभाव जाती आणि समुदायाच्या परंपरांनी प्रभावित आहे. उदाहरणार्थ, ब्राह्मण स्त्रिया साधारणपणे साडीला मागच्या मध्यभागी कंबरेला टेकून आणि पल्लू डाव्या खांद्यावर सुरेखपणे फेकतात. याउलट, आदिवासी स्त्रिया त्यांच्या गुडघ्यापर्यंत उंच साडी नेसतात, तर किनारपट्टीवरील मच्छिमार स्त्रिया “कचम” सारखी साडी नेसतात, ज्यामुळे त्यांच्या दैनंदिन कामकाजात हालचाली सुलभ होतात.

An Indigenous Design Tradition

Maharashtrian Nauvari One of the most intriguing aspects of the Nauvari or Lugade is its indigenous design palette in weaving. This style remains untouched by Mughal motifs or techniques, preserving a distinct cultural identity that reflects the rich history of the region.

एक स्वदेशी डिझाइन परंपरा

नऊवारी किंवा लुगाडेच्या सर्वात मनोरंजक पैलूंपैकी एक म्हणजे विणकामातील स्वदेशी डिझाइन पॅलेट. ही शैली मुघल आकृतिबंध किंवा तंत्रांद्वारे अस्पर्शित राहिली आहे, एक वेगळी सांस्कृतिक ओळख जतन करते जी प्रदेशाच्या समृद्ध इतिहासाचे प्रतिबिंबित करते.

A Symbol of Strength and Art

The Nauvari saree has also been immortalized in art and history. The renowned 19th-century painter Raja Ravi Varma chose the nine-yard saree to portray various goddesses, showcasing its elegance and significance. Moreover, historical figures such as Rani Lakshmibai of Jhansi and Jijabai, the Maratha queen, provide powerful visual images of how women adapted this garment into the attire of warriors, symbolizing strength and resilience.

सामर्थ्य आणि कलेचे प्रतीक

नऊवारी साडी कला आणि इतिहासातही अजरामर झाली आहे. 19व्या शतकातील प्रसिद्ध चित्रकार राजा रविवर्मा यांनी विविध देवींचे चित्रण करण्यासाठी नऊ यार्ड साडीची निवड केली, तिचे अभिजातता आणि महत्त्व दर्शविले. शिवाय, झाशीची राणी लक्ष्मीबाई आणि मराठा राणी जिजाबाई यांसारख्या ऐतिहासिक व्यक्तिरेखा, सामर्थ्य आणि लवचिकतेचे प्रतीक असलेल्या स्त्रिया या पोशाखाला योद्धांच्या पोशाखात कसे रुपांतरित करतात याचे शक्तिशाली दृश्य प्रतिमा देतात.

A Visual Language Across India

Maharashtrian Nauvari The diversity in designs, drapes, fabrics, and colors of sarees across India reveals a unique blending of religious and cultural influences. The way a saree is draped in different regions of India serves as a visual language, telling stories of the land’s geographical and cultural diversity.

संपूर्ण भारतातील दृश्य भाषा

संपूर्ण भारतातील साड्यांच्या डिझाईन्स, ड्रेप्स, फॅब्रिक्स आणि रंगांमधील विविधता धार्मिक आणि सांस्कृतिक प्रभावांचे अनोखे मिश्रण प्रकट करते. भारताच्या वेगवेगळ्या प्रदेशात साडी ज्या प्रकारे नेसली जाते ती दृश्य भाषा म्हणून काम करते, जी भूभागाच्या भौगोलिक आणि सांस्कृतिक विविधतेच्या कथा सांगते.

 Features of the Nauvari Saree:

1. Length and Fabric:

   • The Nauvari saree is typically nine yards long, as opposed to the more common six-yard saree.
   • It is often made from cotton, silk, or a cotton-silk blend, depending on the occasion. The fabric is chosen for comfort, especially considering the intricate draping style. 

1. Draping Style:

1. • The Nauvari saree is draped in a unique way that resembles the style of a dhoti, traditionally worn by men. This drape allows for ease of movement, making it practical for daily activities and dancing during festivals.
   • The saree is wrapped around the legs in a trouser-like manner, without the use of a petticoat, which is usually required for other saree styles.
   • The pallu is then draped over the shoulder, often covering the torso or sometimes left loose.

1. Types of Nauvari Drapes:

   • Kashta Style: The saree is tucked at the back into the waistband, and the pleats are drawn between the legs and tucked in at the back, resembling the drape of a dhoti. The pallu is then draped over the shoulder.

1. • Brahmin Style: This variation involves a more modest draping of the pallu, often covering the chest and back, and is typically worn by Maharashtrian Brahmin women during religious ceremonies.

1. • Koli Style: Worn by the Koli fisherwomen community, this drape is similar to the Kashta style but is more practical and tied in a way that allows ease of movement while working.

1. Cultural Significance:

   • The Nauvari saree is deeply embedded in Maharashtrian culture and is often worn during festivals like Ganesh Chaturthi, Diwali, and Gudi Padwa, as well as during traditional weddings.
   • It is also associated with the image of the Maratha warrior women, who were known for their bravery and strength, symbolized by the practical and warrior-like draping of the Nauvari saree.

1. Accessories and Styling:

   • The Nauvari saree is usually paired with traditional Maharashtrian jewelry such as the Nath (nose ring), green glass bangles, and the Chandrakor Bindi (a crescent-shaped bindi worn on the forehead).
   • Hair is often styled in a bun or braid, adorned with fresh flowers like mogra (jasmine).
   • The saree is often accompanied by a short-sleeved blouse, which can be intricately embroidered or kept simple.

1. Modern Adaptations:

   • While the traditional Nauvari drape remains popular, especially during festivals and weddings, there are modern adaptations that make the drape easier to wear. Pre-stitched Nauvari sarees, which mimic the traditional drape but are easier to wear, have become popular among younger generations.
   • Designers have also experimented with the Nauvari saree, introducing it in various fabrics, colors, and embellishments, making it suitable for contemporary fashion while preserving its traditional essence.

Symbolism:

The Nauvari saree represents the rich cultural heritage of Maharashtra. It is a symbol of pride for Maharashtrian women, reflecting their strength, resilience, and connection to their roots. The saree’s distinct drape, which allows for freedom of movement, also signifies the practical and dynamic roles that women play in society.

The Nauvari saree continues to be a timeless and cherished garment, embodying the spirit and tradition of Maharashtra.

प्रतीकवाद:

नऊवारी साडी महाराष्ट्राच्या समृद्ध सांस्कृतिक वारशाचे प्रतिनिधित्व करते. हे महाराष्ट्रीयन महिलांसाठी अभिमानाचे प्रतीक आहे, जे त्यांचे सामर्थ्य, लवचिकता आणि त्यांच्या मुळांशी जोडलेले आहे. साडीचा वेगळा ड्रेप, जो चळवळीच्या स्वातंत्र्याला अनुमती देतो, स्त्रिया समाजात बजावत असलेल्या व्यावहारिक आणि गतिशील भूमिका देखील दर्शवितात.

नऊवारी साडी हा महाराष्ट्राचा आत्मा आणि परंपरेला मूर्त स्वरूप देणारा एक कालातीत आणि प्रेमळ वस्त्र आहे.

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